Restaurants, cafes, coffee shops in Canal Saint Martin, Paris, 11th arrondissement

Something’s Brewing in Canal Saint Martin

The 10th Arrondissement has long been a forgotten neighbourhood of Paris, overshadowed by the romance of Montmartre above, and the cool vibe of the Marais below. Although it has always boasted the Canal Saint Martin, a favorite summertime picnic spot of young hip thangs from that side of town, the rest of the surrounding streets are home to multicultural establishments: African, Indian, East European, Turkish, Italian, Asian, and probably any other non-French influence you can think of has staked a claim here.

Over the past few years, the 10th has become increasingly more gentrified, and although I dislike this word and phenomenon for many reasons, you can’t deny the perks that come with such an economic shift. Now bear with me, I have zero actual knowledge of economic systems, but here are my thoughts: On one hand, property values increase, driving the poorer community out, bringing in more tourists, and eventually spoiling what had made the area charming in the first place. I don’t believe this has happened yet – the neighbourhood does not bring in a ton of tourists, but I will say it attracts a lot of young foreign residents. Lots of international students, bloggers, and people who work in the arts, and those are my kind of people!

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Claude Monet

Springtime in Monet’s Garden

Being a girl who took started French lessons in high school and studied Art in college, I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for Impressionism, or any artwork during that time period actually. Degas’ cropped Ballerina scenes, Van Gogh’s vibrating and tortuous genre scenes, and Monet’s expansive waterlily canvases. It’s all so fascinating, the history behind these artistic revolutions; and what makes it even more fascinating, more so than seeing the canvases in a museum, is seeing the source of inspiration itself. I had the privilege of seeing Claude Monet’s private gardens last Saturday, as well as his home, and took a crazy amount of flower pictures.

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Rue crémieux and promenade plantée, Paris

Promenade Plantée & Rue Crèmieux

The weather has been treating us SO well lately, so a buddy and I decided to soak it all in last Thursday. We started the day with a long lunch at Holy Belly, a somewhat-newly opened café/restaurant that prides itself on using fresh, seasonal ingredients, and boasting a monthly-rotating menu, a small selection of microbrews, and a pinball machine. I’m working on a more in-depth review of this restaurant for another website, so I’ll leave it at this for now: It’s yummy and I highly recommend.

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There’s more to France than Paris

Yesterday, the Paris area saw some of the worst air pollution… ever. At least that’s what the news articles keep saying, and judging by the visible haze suspended in the sky, obscuring trees and buildings, I gotta believe them. It didn’t stop me from having a lovely little walk through a village outside of Paris, however. Villennes-Sur-Seine, complete with weeping willows over a river, adorable stone houses, and a charming garden on the side of a hill. The atmosphere felt pleasantly warm, thick, and cozy, probably enhanced by the dense smog in the air.

I wouldn’t have made the trek out there if it weren’t for some official business to take care of – I was picking up some official translations of documents needed to apply for a residence card. I’m glad I did go, because it made me realize that there’s more to see here than Paris… small villages and towns with medieval churches, ivy-covered walls, small, quiet streets, quaint cafes, and stone fountains. This short afternoon trek has inspired me to branch outward, see what lies outside of the Paris grandeur.

Here are just a few things I noticed while waiting for the next train back home:

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Elopement marrigae in NYC and sightseeing

Change of Plans: NYC Elopement

Moving to France to eat croissants and macarons all day might sound “easy” or “spontaneous,” but it actually takes a lot of planning and, how do I put it? …logistical manoeuvres. There are a few ways to get here: as a student, as a student/au pair, as a worker, or as the family member of a European person. The option that made the most sense for Erik and I was to become family members, i.e.: get married.

Up until last week, we had been planning on marrying in Sweden, Erik being a Swede and all. We had the tickets bought, we had plans for me to finally meet his family, and we were about to leave in less than a week. However, when we found out that some documents we sent hadn’t been deemed “official” enough, we had to make a sudden change of plans. It’s not like we have all the time in the world, either – there’s a definite timeline to apply for residency, which is constantly hanging over my head.

Our solution? New York City.

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Sunny Day in the 5th: Rue Mouffetard, Jardin des Plantes, and Tea at the Grande Mosquée

Okay, let’s face it – when I use the word Sunny, what I actually mean is that a handful of sun rays peeked through the clouds intermittently during the day. What I DON’T mean is the bright, powerful, stark sunshine of California – That kind of sunshine, my friends, I probably won’t be seeing anytime soon. But for now, a few warming rays bring a much-needed feeling of warm happiness.

This Saturday, I went on a little wander through the 5th Arrondissement with my friend Ellen. She introduced me to a really great Crêperie on well-known Rue Mouffetard that has made its appearances on many a travel itinerary, but which I had never heard of. In fact, I had never even walked this famous foodie road until now! I was pleasantly surprised with how charming it was – on a slight incline, full of delicious scents of roasting meat, felafel, and sweet crêpes, miscellaneous shops, an American diner… shall I go on?

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